Thursday, January 22, 2015

Beginning Watercolor Homework 1/21/15 Monochrome Value Study


Five Value Monochrome Study

What role does value play in the relationships between the big shapes?
As a first treatment of a new subject, it would be hard to find a better exercise than a value study. Understanding the dark/light relationships between the big shapes in your composition is an essential step to making a painting that is cohesive. A five-value version  (white, light grey, middle grey, dark grey, black) can be done quite quickly over a simple drawing of the big shapes. It also provides good practice for seeing in layers. 
Look for an image that resolves nicely into just a few shapes - no more than a dozen.  The major shapes are those that must appear separated in order to understand where things are in the illusory space. You can use one of these photos or one of your own. 





Choose a color (just one) straight from the tube, that can get dark enough to represent black. It’s better not to make a color by mixing, since that introduces another variable. This exercise is designed to focus on value only. Similarly, all paint should be applied to dry paper, to keep wetness from distracting your attention from value.
If you are tempted to get fussy about edge quality, or texture, or any kind of detail, remember, this is NOT A PAINTING, and it is supposed to be too simple. A door may be important, but the doorknob probably isn’t. I have seen some so-called value studies that are, in fact, very carefully observed monochrome paintings. They may be quite beautiful, but as tools designed to reveal the essential elements of the scene, they are not very useful. The best way to find out if something needs to be in the picture is to leave it out.
After each step, while you’re waiting for the paper to dry, assess how complete the illusion of light and space and substance feels.



Light is an important component of this image. Isolating the variable of Valueshould reveal the role it plays in creating the illusion of sun and shadow.

                      

In your drawing of the big shapes, try to keep the number down to ten, or fewer. The profile of each shape is all you need to draw. The idea is tolocate the shapes, not to describe them.

               
· Starting with the light grey, paint the entire page, except for any shapes that need to stay white.
Is there a feeling of light in the study? What about space? Substance?

                   
· When that layer is dry, paint the whole page middle grey, except for the lights and the whites. If you can’t decide whether a shape should be light or middle, round it off one way or the other. The finished study will reveal whether you made the right choice.
Again assess the state of the illusion: Light? Space? Substance?


                  
· When layer two is dry, apply the dark grey over everything except the middle, light and white shapes. Now that the background figure has a dark grey layer, and the section of wall behind him does not, notice how effectively the two separate, compared to the previous stage.

                
Finally, paint in the darkest darks.
The role of the darkest darks in creating an illusion of light, space and substance is clear even in a radically over-simplified image.

Where do I need more subtlety or specificity?
When the value study is finished, it can be compared to the source image or the scene to see where adjustments need to be made. Having come way over into the realm of too little information, we now have a basis for judging how much more needs to be included.  Don’t skip this step.  A study, as the name implies, is a learning tool. Your painting process will be more efficient and your paintings more cohesive if you extract all the lessons you can from your preliminary work.
In the photo, the two mounds of dirt are so similar in color and value it seemed sensible to treat them as a single shape. But the study reveals that it would be better to separate them, making it clearer that the one on the right is in front. It is also clear that the mound on the left does not separate sufficiently from the wall in the background. It looks ok where there is a shadow behind it, but where the wall is sunlit only the pencil line separates the two shapes. Perhaps lightening the left mound a little could solve both of these problems. Five values, in this case, are not quite enough. This is an example of the need for more subtlety.
The little raised frame beside the doorway that catches the sun is a fine feature  of the photo that I miss. It does an important job, describing the light. It is a bit of specific information that will add significantly to the picture without becoming a distraction.
It is surprisingly easy to see what is missing and what needs to be changed when the image has been over-simplified. If I had made a complex first attempt it would be difficult to know which of the (too) many elements were not necessary.

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Monday Night Watercolor Homework: Color Mixing Without a Net


In class we talked a little about true beginners not being burdened with bad habits. For those of you with some experience with watercolor, I’m afraid it’s too late. You’re all doomed to keep making the same mistakes.

Just kidding.

Let’s start with color mixing. First of all it’s not true that you need lots of tubes of subtly different colors to make accurate copies of whatever you want to include in your paintings. Red, yellow and blue can do it all. Theoretically.


If our language had only 6 names for colors – red, yellow, blue, green, orange and violet – what would you call this color? No fair combining names, like greenish orange. Pick just one of the six.
It has to be green, right? It’s a complicated color, for sure, and you might wish we had “grey” as an option, but green is the color that dominates the mix. 

See if you can match this color using just one red, one yellow, and one blue. Try starting by mixing a green, since that’s the dominant color. Mix a little blue and yellow together. I’m guessing the green that results doesn’t look close to what we’re aiming for. Too intensely GREEN, like the one below, right? How can you dull it down?  


Try a little bit of red (the compliment). A really little bit, and maybe some more water if it looks too dark. Is green still dominant? If not, how can you nudge it back toward our target color? It either needs some more blue, or yellow, or red, or a combination of them. That’s the whole story. To get the color you’ve got to look more like the one you want, add some red, some yellow, or some blue. No recipes needed.
Once you get it in the ballpark, try it again with a different red, yellow and blue. There are many ways to make a reasonable duplicate of any color. Develop the habit of looking first for the dominant color, then adjust that with additions of what you think is missing. If your mix is too intense, add a little of the compliment to dull it down.

Look in a magazine for patches of solid color that are at least one inch square. Cut them out and stick them to white paper. Using just the primary red, yellow and blue, make a near enough match of each one and paint a patch of it beside the pasted on square. Make a note of which colors you used. Try to match it with different component colors.


Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Abstract watercolor Workshop Notes












Now that I’ve begun actively showing my abstract paintings, I get the feeling everyone has been just waiting for an opportunity to find out what the deal is with that non-objective stuff. People keep asking me how I make my decisions when there is no content to guide me. They wonder where the ideas come from, considering it all seems so arbitrary. I've been asked several times how I know whether what I'm doing is any good. This is just the sort of thing most artists prefer to keep to themselves, but, having been a teacher for almost as long as I’ve been painting, I actually enjoy trying to answer these questions . I am no longer worried about over-analyzing the process, having seen that there is more benefit than loss in understanding more clearly what motivates me.
In that spirit, then, let’s take a look at a few abstract paintings with an emphasis on how the artists chose to compose the page. Most, but not all of these are watercolors. If there’s no name under a picture the artist is unknown to me. Finding good abstract watercolor painters is not easy. If you have any tips, please respond to this posting.




Paul Klee                                                                     Serge Poliakoff



Let's begin by looking at how these two paintings are similar. What do you notice?

Edges? Hard. Overlap? Some, but still flat. Symmetrical? Not quite, but both are dependent on a central vertical axis. Distribution of shapes? Crowded into the middle. Only background shapes touch the frame. Color? Limited palette, lots of neutral. Value? Distinct light, middle and dark. Overall feeling? Both are pretty tidy paintings, even a bit uptight. Both have the feeling of having been drawn first, then colored in.

Now, how are the two different?

Shapes? Colors? Movement?



Here are a couple more to compare:



                     

Gerhard Richter



This computer program has defeated me! I had big
plans, but I'll settle now for simply stacking a bunch of
interesting images.





Cathy Morton Stanion








                               Sam Francis


                                  Dodi Fredericks


Paul Jenkins


                                     Emil Nolde



                                  Georgia O'Keefe



                                            Gerhard  Richter



Richard Diebenkorn

Friday, November 21, 2014

Open Studio


Here's a sample of some recent work :


Goat Vista (Palouse)


High Road 


Quilt (Palouse)



Say What You Will (Palouse)


Forge



Sweet Sorrow



Motto



City of Refuge




Significant Event (Oaxaca)



Bellows' Woods (Lopez Island)



Filter (Seattle)



New Land (Hawaii)




Important Air   (Palouse)

Un Poco Tarde  (Oaxaca)

Sunday, November 16, 2014

All Classes Homework "What If?"

What if there were no homework assignments this week? I'm pretty sure you'd still paint, right? Let's see what you come up with...


Here are some images that might take what we were doing in class and push it a bit:

Andre Derain

Alexi Von Yawlensky

David Park

Richard Diebenkorn

David Park

Yawlensky

Thursday, November 6, 2014

Monday Night and Wednesday Afternoon 11/6/14: Colors in Shadows


Shadow Color

Alley in the New World

We’ve observed that, as a rule, shadows are darker, cooler, andmore neutral than the surface they fall on. This is usually true in nature, but in a painting, of course, you can do whatever you want. Depending on the feeling you are creating in the picture, you may want to make all the shadows ultramarine, for example, or let all the component colors of a neutral show in the shadow, leaving it for the viewer to mix them together.

Experiment with a simple scene, trying out different colors to see how the changes affect the overall feeling. Be subtle. Be outrageous.
Here are some photos and paintings to stir you up. Look for a shadow photo and have some fun with it.




Robert Wade



Deborah Secor        Pastel







Beginning Watercolor Homework; The facial shadow pattern

For the self-portraits we will do in class we will set the lighting so that there is a distinct pattern of light and shadow. A relatively high contrast pattern coming from a single light source does most of the work of describing the features and creating a feeling of three dimensions.
Seeing the shadow pattern as its own layer is a great way to get started in portraiture.


In our set-ups the shadows will be middle value. Here, in these samples, many of the shadows are quite dark, which makes them easy to see as a separate layer. Try copying some of them roughly. Don't fuss too much with the likeness. After a few you may feel that you can invent a face or two simply by painting a pattern of shadows. Give it a try.